On Going with The Flow
I recently embarked on a journey to attend a friend’s wedding in Bihar, coinciding with the Kumbh Mela—a massive spiritual gathering that draws millions. Little did I know, this trip would turn into a chaotic and thought-provoking experience, leaving me questioning the essence of such events and the human behavior surrounding them.
The Struggle to Reach Prayagraj
The journey began with the challenge of securing a train reservation. After two cancellations and an eight-hour delay on the train I finally boarded, I arrived at Prayagraj Railway Station, only to be greeted by utter chaos. The station was overflowing with people, many of whom didn’t have reservations but were willing to pay fines to travel. The crowd had swelled due to rumors of Naga Sadhus vacating the Kumbh area, creating a scene more intense than even the special bathing days.
The platform was packed beyond capacity, and the police were forcefully pushing people into trains to make space for others. No one was allowed to linger on the platform for long. Passengers were advised to move to nearby stations and figure out their next steps from there. It was a scene of desperation and disorder.
The Human Struggle: Empathy Lost in the Crowd
What struck me most was the behavior of the crowd. While 60% of the people had reservations or were willing to pay fines, the remaining 40% seemed to be freeloaders, pushing and shoving their way through. They showed no regard for the weak, children, women, or the elderly, shouting at seated passengers to make space for themselves. It was disheartening to witness such a lack of empathy. In that moment, the Kumbh Mela felt less like a spiritual gathering and more like an animal market—a place where people acted like sheep, blindly following the crowd, or like wolves, aggressively pursuing their own interests.
The Lost Essence of the Kumbh Mela
The Kumbh Mela is traditionally a spiritual event, a time for reflection, devotion, and connection with the divine. However, what I witnessed was far from spiritual. Instead of battling natural elements like mountains, rivers, or weather—which can add value to a spiritual journey—people were battling each other. The journey, which is often said to be more important than the destination, felt devoid of meaning. It made me question the purpose of such struggles. Is this what spirituality has been reduced to?
In my past travels to temples and spiritual sites, I’ve often felt a sense of wonder and connection during the journey itself—experiencing history, culture, traditions, and the beauty of human diversity. But at the Kumbh Mela, it seemed to be all about humans struggling against each other, with little room for genuine spiritual growth.
The Role of the Police and Missing Volunteers
Despite the chaos, there were some heartwarming moments. The police were doing their best to manage the situation, especially in caring for the elderly. I saw officers gently guiding old people, some with curved spines, through the crowd, one at a time. It was a touching sight, though I couldn’t capture it on camera due to the commotion.
However, I couldn’t help but wonder where the NGO volunteers, NCC cadets, and Scouts and Guides were. Their presence could have made a significant difference in managing the crowd and assisting those in need. The absence of such support highlighted the lack of organized efforts to ensure a smoother experience for everyone.
A Verse from the Katha Upanishad: A Moment of Reflection
Amidst the chaos, I found myself reflecting on a verse from the Katha Upanishad:
अविद्यायामन्तरे वर्तमानाः
स्वयं धीराः पण्डितंमन्यमानाः ।
दन्द्रम्यमाणाः परियन्ति मूढा
अन्धेनैव नीयमाना यथान्धाः ॥ ५॥
Fools dwelling in darkness, but thinking themselves wise and erudite, go round and round, by various tortuous paths, like the blind led by the blind.
This verse resonated deeply with me. It speaks of people who, despite being lost in ignorance, believe themselves to be wise. They wander aimlessly, following others who are equally blind. It made me question the motivations of those attending the Kumbh Mela. Are they truly seeking spiritual enlightenment, or are they simply following the crowd, chasing external validation or temporary relief from their anxieties?
The Three Pursuits of Happiness
The verse led me to contemplate the three things humans often chase in search of happiness:
- जड़ (Inanimate): Material possessions—believing that acquiring things will bring happiness.
- चेतना (Conscious): Relationships—thinking that being with certain people will fulfill them.
- कल्पना (Imagination): Imaginary divine experiences—seeking spiritual promises or visions that cannot be verified.
The reality, however, is that none of these pursuits can truly satisfy the soul. Material possessions don’t enhance consciousness, relationships can’t complete us, and imaginary divine experiences are often delusions. Those who chase these illusions suffer the most, as they are unable to distinguish between reality and fantasy.
The Importance of Discernment (Vivek)
This experience reinforced the importance of discernment—vivek—in making decisions. Before embarking on any spiritual journey, one must ask: Why am I going? What do I hope to achieve? What is the true nature of this place? If the goal is moksha (liberation), it’s crucial to understand what that truly means. Events like the Kumbh Mela can easily become tools for those in power to manipulate the masses, creating a fear of missing out (FOMO) and exploiting people’s spiritual aspirations.
Balancing the Internal and External Worlds
We live in two worlds: the external, governed by science and intelligence, and the internal, where we must confront our ego (aham). In both realms, it’s essential to question, seek truth, and cultivate awareness. Blindly following the crowd or chasing external validations will only lead us further into ignorance (avidya).
A Question to Ponder
As I conclude this reflection, I leave you with a question: What are you truly seeking? Is it Buddha’s Nirvana, Nachiketa’s Moksha, or simply relief from worldly pain? Or are you enjoying the journey of life, finding joy in the experiences and lessons it brings? The choice is yours to make, but remember—discernment is key.
The Kumbh Mela may be a spectacle, but true spirituality lies within. It’s not about the destination or the chaos of the journey, but the clarity and wisdom we gain along the way.